If the fabric is the "soul" of a suit, then the lining is the "skeleton" of the suit. As an important structure that supports the silhouette of a suit, the craftsmanship of the lining plays an indispensable role in the suit. Therefore, one of the simplest and most direct ways to tell whether a suit jacket is well-made is to look at the lining. Since "lining" is so important, let's talk about it in detail today!
Lining is a layer of textile between the fabric and the lining, which is used to support the entire suit, commonly known as "lining, lining". Without affecting the feel and style of the fabric, the stiffness and elasticity of the lining make the suit flat and wrinkle-resistant. For the clothes with lining, there is also an extra layer of protection and fixation, making the clothes more durable.
The main types of lining and suit combination are sewing and bonding: sewing lining is mainly linen lining, which is not completely fitted with the fabric and lining. Linen lining is divided into linen lining and semi-linen lining; while bonded lining is usually a sticky lining produced by a chemical reaction after high temperature melting.
Sewn lining
Linen lining
Sewn lining is to sew the lining and the edge of the surface material together, so the linen lining is actually movable. This means that the linen-lined suit is easy to change with the dynamic changes of the wearer, as if imitating the movement habits of the shoulders and chest to fit the wearer. It can be said that it is a more flexible lining.
At the same time, there is no full contact between the material layers, which means that the pressure on each is not much, so even if it is worn for a long time, the suit will not easily lose its shape and has high wear resistance.
The production process of linen lining is quite laborious and time-consuming (especially the manual part). In a full linen-lined suit, the chest lining extends from the shoulder and lapel to the hem to support the shape of the front piece, covering a large area.
Of course, the efficiency of machine sewing has been greatly improved now, but because the lapel that can be naturally rolled up has a more complex direction, this puts more stringent requirements on the machine. Although the waiting time for receiving the goods is shortened, the expensive machine cost will also be transferred to consumers like the labor cost, so the price of linen lining is not cheap.
Half-linen lining
Suits using half-linen lining technology still have adhesive lining. So slide down from the chest and touch it. If you feel that there are places with different thicknesses during the process, it is generally half-linen lining. This type of lining will only use sewn lining in the parts that need the most structural support, that is, the chest and lapel. Bonded lining will be used in the parts outside the chest lining to save costs.
Although it is a half-linen lining, the chest lining part generally includes the structure from the shoulder to the waistline, accounting for nearly two-thirds of the total weight. For maintaining the silhouette of the suit, it can actually meet the main effect of the linen lining. The chest shape is full, and the lapel can curl naturally when folded. The price of the finished product is also much lower than that of the linen lining. It can be seen that the cost performance of the half-linen lining is extremely high.
Bonded lining
Bonded lining is a rare product in today's sewing industry. Because of its simple process, high production efficiency and low cost, it is more used in large-scale assembly line production.
As a raw material chemical substance, the bonded lining is smaller and tighter in structure than the fabric lining, which also creates the characteristics of light weight of the bonded lining. At the same time, because it is directly adhered to the inner layer of the front piece, it does not have the ductility of the linen lining. Moreover, the bonded lining blocks the air circulation needed for the suit to breathe, and the air permeability is poor, so it is easy to accumulate heat when wearing.
In addition, the service life of the bonded lining suit is very short, because the adhesive will always start to loosen with wearing, and the final result is that bubbles and wrinkles will form on the lapel and front, which is quite annoying, while the linen lining mentioned above will not cause you these troubles.
Unless you are sensitive to price, or do not have too many texture requirements, and only wear it for ordinary needs or only wear it a few times, it is really not recommended to make a bonded lining suit your first choice for clothing.
Therefore, when choosing a suit, the structure of the suit must be taken into consideration, which is also one of the criteria for evaluating the quality of the suit. However, everyone's body shape is different, so only tailor-made can ensure that the clothes fit their body shape perfectly and show their most confident, calm and elegant side!