01 Concept:
Clothing lining refers to the cloth inside a certain part of the clothes, which can play the role of tightening, shaping and supporting, so that the clothes can achieve a flat effect.
Generally divided into woven lining and non-woven lining.
02 Basic functions:
(1) Make the overall clothing straight, the folded edges clear and straight, and achieve the ideal design requirements.
(2) Maintain the good structural shape and stable size of the clothing.
(3) Improve and enhance the processing performance, wrinkle resistance and strength of clothing fabrics.
(4) Improve the warmth retention of clothing and make the clothing strong and durable.
03 Basic classification:
Paper lining:
Commonly known as non-woven lining, one-sided adhesive, the adhesive particles are white. It is mostly used in some corners of clothing, such as: opening pockets, buttonholes, etc. Non-woven linings are divided into thick and thin, and their thickness will be directly reflected in the location where they are used, and can be selected according to needs.
Cloth lining:
Commonly known as spun lining, with adhesive on one side and white rubber particles. Used in the main body or important positions of clothing, such as the front of the jacket, collar, waistband, coat interlayer, front lapels, sleeves, etc. Spun lining also has different thicknesses, so you need to choose as appropriate.
Resin type hard lining:
With adhesive on one side, the particle side is the adhesive side, which has a good shaping effect. Used for stiff collars, cuffs, pockets, skirt waists, hems, hats, etc. The hardness of the hard lining is different, so choose according to the needs of the clothing.
Double-sided adhesive lining:
With adhesive on one side, the rubber particles are white. It is woven with hot melt adhesive wire, as thin as a cicada's wing, and no pressing line is required. It is used for bonding various double-layer fabrics of clothing (hemming, smooth seams, belts, straps, shoulder pads, etc. at the lining, cuffs, hems, collars, and hems of clothing). There are also double-sided adhesive linings in the form of a whole roll of tape on the market, which are very useful when folding or rolling.
04 The difference between woven and non-woven interlinings:
1. Different production processes:
Woven interlinings are woven, and you can clearly see the vertical and horizontal weaving patterns on the interlinings. Non-woven interlinings are made by extruding slurry.
2. Different prices:
Woven interlinings are more expensive than non-woven interlinings, which is closely related to the general public, because this affects the cost price of clothes! Therefore, many high-end clothes use woven interlinings.
3. Different uses
Woven interlinings are mostly used for stiff fabrics, while non-woven interlinings are used for soft fabrics. But I personally think it is not absolute, because many woven interlinings are now made thin and soft and can also be used for soft fabrics.
4. Different lifespans
Woven interlinings can withstand repeated washing, while non-woven interlinings are easy to be washed out.
5. Misunderstanding correction:
Color is not the difference between woven and non-woven interlinings. Because they all have white and black colors, and can also add some other special processes to form a special texture!
05 Common usage of lining
Most of the time, lining is used in clothing. Many novices or designers are not clear about the usage of lining, and often worry about whether to use it, where to use it, how to use it, what lining to use, etc. In fact, for clothing, these are the most common ones. In the past, there were non-woven linings, commonly known as paper linings or Pu (Pu), which mainly played a role in shaping and stiffening, which was convenient for production and operation, and the price was low, but it did not take shape after washing, so most factories no longer use it, and use more woven linings.
The function of lining is to stiffen, shape, prevent wrinkles and pull whiskers, and facilitate production and operation. Based on these functions, there is a general common sense range. For example, lining is used for tops and trousers, such as collars, cuffs, sleeve forks, pocket covers, pocket lips, the side of the buttonholes on the front, waistbands, and some loops. Some have two layers of lining ironed, while some only have one layer of lining ironed. This depends on the fabric and style effect.
Generally, the front of suits and windbreakers will be ironed with lining, as well as the cuffs, hems, and slits. For suits, the lining is ironed around the collar, sleeves, and shoulders. Most of these are 30D or 75D woven lining. It also depends on the thickness of the fabric and the style effect. There is also a common sense here, that is, buttonholes, and the buttoned parts are usually ironed with a layer of lining.
06 Conventional role:
① Lining strips are used in clothing with high quality requirements. It can prevent the easily deformed parts from being stretched and deformed during the sewing process;
② Some plate-making processes require three-dimensional shaping of certain parts by shrinking, which can also be achieved with lining strips;
③ Double-sided adhesive lining strips are used to fix two pieces of fabric.
Classification:
① Lining strips are divided into woven and non-woven according to the weaving method;
② According to the color, they are often black and white;
③ According to the yarn direction, they can be divided into straight and oblique yarns.
★ Straight yarn is often used in the straight parts of clothing. For example, the front stop;
★Twill threads are often used in curved areas. For example, necklines, armholes, etc.